No Place Like P’town for the Holidays

by Steven Desroches

Photo: Jeff Lovinger (lovingerimages.com/)

No matter how far away you roam, you’re sure to fall in love with Ho Ho Old Cape Cod

Like most things in Provincetown, the holiday season begins in a big, bold, and flashy way with the lighting of the Pilgrim Monument. Every Wednesday before Thanksgiving the icon of the town on the tip is lit to look like a Christmas tree, visible for miles around and signifying the start of the holidays. And the period between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve, once desolate with only year-rounders and the most hardcore Provincetown fans, is increasingly a popular and relatively crowded time of year.

Of course, it doesn’t attract the same size crowds as in the summer high season or like popular shoulder season events such as Halloween or Women’s Week. But the holidays in Provincetown is beginning to grow legs as fun, festive time to celebrate the holidays in a unique way. Don we know our gay apparel, indeed.

Perhaps appropriately enough the first landing spot of the Pilgrims has become a popular destination to celebrate Thanksgiving. Increasingly, second home owners return with their families to celebrate by the sea, and tourists look to take advantage of cheaper condo and home rentals and reduced rates at the many guest houses still open in Provincetown. And for those that aren’t so keen on cooking, many restaurants offer a fixed price menu for Thanksgiving. No work, no clean-up, just a relaxing dinner by the harbor.  In response to the increased popularity of Thanksgiving in Provincetown, entertainment venues and clubs around town are booking drag queens, musicians, and DJs to entertain those looking to burn off the turkey dinner over the long weekend. The Crown and Anchor will host singer/songwriter hottie Todd Alsup as well as the hilarious drag show Suddenly Susan Boil, a tender and lighthearted spoof of the Scottish singing sensation Susan Boyle, which was the hit of the 2010 summer season in Provincetown.

Alsup returns to the Crown for Holly Folly weekend, the world’s only gay and lesbian Christmas festival. Held annually the first weekend in December, Holly Folly has evolved from a blip on the Provincetown calendar to a full-fledged holiday gala weekend. Whether you are looking for a cozy weekend sipping egg nog by the fire with cookies and someone special or want to dance shirtless at one of the Christmas dance parties hosted at the Crown or the Atlantic House, you’re sure to find Holly Folly a one-of-a-kind way to celebrate the holidays Provincetown-style. Kicking off the weekend is the fun-filled Tis the Season for Giving an annual fundraiser for the AIDS Support Group of Cape Cod organized by hometown drag queen Anita Cocktail. The packed evening at the Crown is full of jingle bell drag acts, carols by local musicians, and a lot of holiday surprises. Also that night is the annual Land’s End Inn Christmas party. Perched high atop a hill in the West End, the eclectic and eccentric inn opens its doors for an open house holiday party. Meet new friends under the massive Christmas tree in the main lobby or cuddle up with your partner as you sip wine looking out over Provincetown Harbor.

Saturday night features the traditional Boston Gay Men’s Chorus concert at the Unitarian Universalist Meeting House (where the theme for Carnival 2011 will be announced!) The Porchside Bar at the Gifford House hosts Christmas sing-a-longs all weekend and perhaps the most devilishly twisted event is the annual Christmas Kook at Enzo’s, when several of the Gold Dust Orphans become Santa’s elves and raise money for a toy drive for local children. Imagine Santa’s Workshop run by drag queens and you’ll get the picture. Perhaps one of the biggest draws that brings people to town for Holly Folly and keeps them coming each weekend till Christmas are the huge sales up and down Commercial Street. Ranging from 30, to 50, even 75 percent off, retailers are eager to unload last summer’s stock in preparation for the new season.

The holiday season closes with a bang each New Year’s Eve. Those experiencing their first New Year’s in Provincetown always marvel at just how crowded it is. But it’s the perfect place to celebrate. It’s an easy walking town so no worries about driving, or other drivers. Bars and clubs all over town have special parties planned and it is the one night of the year that they stay open until 2 a.m. Drag shows, concerts, art exhibits – the entertainment options grow each year. As if the holidays weren’t gay enough Provincetown has of course found a way to add just a little more glitter and sparkle to Christmas! [x]

The Holidays in Provincetown

THANKSGIVING

Wednesday, November 24 through Sunday, November 28.

HOLLY FOLLY

Friday December 3 through Sunday, December 5.

NEW YEARS EVE

Friday, December 31 through Sunday, January 2.

For more information, check out

www.ptown.org.